Shiitake in shojin ryori: the role of mushrooms in Japanese temple cooking
Imagine a temple kitchen where meat, fish, garlic and onion are absent, yet a pot of broth still tastes deeply savoury. This is one of the pleasures of shojin ryori, the plant-based cooking tradition practised in Japanese Buddhist temples. Shiitake has an important place in it, bringing a rounded flavour to stocks, simmered vegetables and rice.
The approach offers plenty for home cooks to explore. It combines careful use of ingredients with an appreciation of seasonality, colour and texture. Here, we look at what shojin ryori is, why shiitake matters in its cooking, how to make a simple kombu and mushroom dashi, and how to bring some of its ideas into your own kitchen.
What is shojin ryori?
Shojin ryori is the vegetarian cooking associated with Japanese Buddhist temples, particularly Zen temples. Its history is closely connected to the arrival and development of Buddhism in Japan. The name is often translated as “devotion cuisine”, reflecting the care given to preparing food as part of temple life.
Traditional shojin food is made without meat or fish. Dairy and eggs are also left out, making many dishes vegan. Pungent vegetables known as gokun are traditionally avoided too. Lists vary, but garlic and onion are familiar examples. The ingredients are chosen with care, often according to the season, and cooks aim to use as much of each ingredient as possible.
A useful way to understand the balance of a meal is through the principle of five colours, five flavours and five cooking methods. A dish might combine several colours of vegetables, balance tastes such as sweet, sour, salty, bitter and pungent, and include different textures created by cooking methods such as simmering, steaming, grilling, frying or serving an ingredient raw.
This way of cooking also has a written history. In 1237, the Zen teacher Dōgen wrote Tenzo Kyōkun, or Instructions for the Cook, which describes the responsibilities of the temple cook and the care taken with ingredients. Web Japan’s overview of shojin ryori explains how cooking is treated as part of Zen practice. Today, visitors may also encounter shojin ryori during shukubo, a stay at a temple lodging. The Japan National Tourism Organization’s guide to temple stays describes the cuisine served to guests.
Why mushrooms matter in a kitchen without meat or fish
Dashi is a Japanese stock used to build flavour in soups, sauces and simmered dishes. Many familiar versions use kombu, a type of kelp, together with dried bonito flakes. In temple cooking, cooks draw on ingredients such as kombu and shiitake to make a fish-free stock with plenty of savoury depth.
The flavour comes partly from two naturally occurring substances. Kombu is rich in glutamate, while dried shiitake contains guanylate. Together, these compounds create a fuller savoury taste than either ingredient brings on its own. The Umami Information Center’s guide to dashi and mushrooms explains how kombu, dried shiitake and their flavour compounds are used in Japanese cooking.
Shiitake’s contribution extends beyond stock. The caps have an earthy aroma and a substantial texture, so they can give a dish presence even when the ingredient list is short. In a meal built around vegetables, grains and tofu, that depth can make a simple bowl of rice or soup feel complete.
Shiitake dashi: the foundation of temple cooking
A shiitake and kombu stock is one form of vegan dashi. It has a different flavour from fish-based dashi, with gentle savoury notes from the seaweed and a rounded, earthy character from the mushroom. It can be used as a base for soups, sauces and nimono, the Japanese method of gently simmering ingredients in stock.
A simple cold-soak method is easy to prepare ahead:
Put dried shiitake and a piece of kombu in a bowl or jar of cold water.
Cover and leave it in the fridge for several hours or overnight.
Lift out the mushrooms and kombu, then strain the liquid before using it as mushroom dashi.
The softened mushrooms are useful in their own right, so keep them for another dish. Slice them into simmered vegetables, add them to rice or cook them with soy and mirin. Using both the stock and the mushrooms makes good use of the ingredients and gives you a starting point for more than one meal.
Fresh shiitake can also be used to make dashi. The resulting broth is lighter and more delicate than one made with dried shiitake, so it works well when you want the other ingredients to remain in the foreground. Pairing it with kombu gives the stock another layer of flavour.
Shiitake on the plate: classic temple dishes
Shiitake can be served whole, sliced or chopped, depending on the dish. Its texture holds up well in cooking, and its flavour works alongside vegetables, tofu and rice.
Nimono is a natural place for shiitake. Vegetables are gently simmered in dashi, often with whole or halved mushrooms, until they absorb the seasoning. The result is simple and satisfying, with each ingredient keeping its own character.
Shiitake can also be simmered on its own with soy sauce and mirin. The liquid reduces around the mushrooms, giving them a glossy finish and a concentrated flavour. They can be served as a small side dish or used to top rice.
Takikomi gohan is seasoned rice cooked with mushrooms and other ingredients. Shiitake adds a savoury note as the rice absorbs the cooking liquid, while seasonal vegetables bring colour and texture. It is a useful way to make a one-pot meal feel considered without relying on a long list of ingredients.
For a heartier bowl, kenchin-jiru is a vegetable soup traditionally associated with Kenchō-ji temple. Recipes vary, but it often includes root vegetables and tofu. Shiitake and kombu dashi can provide the base for a meat-free version. Koya tofu or goma dofu, a sesame-based tofu, can also accompany a temple-style meal.
For more everyday ideas, see our guide to how to cook shiitake.
Bringing the temple approach into your own kitchen
You do not need to recreate a temple meal to learn from shojin cooking. Start with one good ingredient and give it room to contribute. Fresh shiitake can be the focus of a simple rice dish, soup or pan of simmered vegetables. Merit Mushroom's fresh shiitake mushrooms can be used in these everyday dishes, as well as in Japanese vegetarian recipes.
Using the whole ingredient is another practical habit. Shiitake stems can be tougher than the caps, but they can add flavour to a stock. Keep them for dashi, then strain them out or slice them finely for a longer-cooked dish. Choosing vegetables that are in season and avoiding unnecessary waste also echo the care at the heart of shojin cooking.
If you are interested in seeing shiitake develop from mycelium to harvest, our Shiitake fruiting block is a ready-to-fruit option for growers with a suitable fruiting environment. Check the product guidance for the conditions it requires before ordering.
FAQs
What does shojin ryori mean?
Shojin ryori is often translated as “devotion cuisine”. It refers to the vegetarian cooking practised in Japanese Buddhist temples, where preparing food with care forms part of daily temple life.
What do Buddhist monks eat in Japan?
Temple meals may include vegetables, grains, tofu, sea vegetables and mushrooms. Traditional shojin cooking avoids meat, fish and pungent alliums, with dishes planned around the season and the ingredients available.
Is shojin ryori vegan?
Traditional shojin ryori uses no animal products, so it is vegan. Restaurants may adapt dishes for modern menus, so check how a meal is prepared if you are ordering.
Can I make vegan dashi with fresh shiitake?
Yes. Fresh shiitake can make a light, delicate dashi. Pair it with kombu for a fuller flavour. Dried shiitake produces a deeper, more concentrated stock.
Explore shojin cooking at home
Shiitake shows how a few carefully chosen ingredients can bring depth to a meal. Try it in a kombu dashi, a bowl of takikomi gohan or a simple simmered dish, and let the season guide what goes alongside it.
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